Step by Step Guide of SW Jewelry Making (Crystal Fox Gallery)

More Information about Step by Step Guide of SW Jewelry MakingIt may seem hard to believe, but there are up to 220 separate stages in the manufacture of some of the pieces in the Swarovski Jewelry Collection. We haven't the room to describe the process in that sort of detail here, but the following photographs, illustrating the main stages along the way, will give you some idea of the skilled craftsmanship that goes into Swarovski's popular jewelry line. The piece we have chosen to illustrate the process is the appealing little penguin brooch. Like every other piece in the collection, it was selected only after a close analysis of prevailing fashion trends. Our marketing department also provides useful input regarding the success - or lack of it - of previous pieces. AU this information is assembled in a briefing that ideally tells the designer exactly what is required but puts no restrictions on his creativity. He makes rough sketches of his ideas, and the best of these is chosen with the help of the people from marketing. Once a design has been selected, the designer draws detailed views of the piece from three different angles, showing the exact size and color of the stones. (Fig. 1)

Now it is time for one of the most difficult parts of the process, when our model makers turn the two-dimensional drawing into a three-dimensional model. Starting with a block of Babbitt metal, they saw and file and drill away until every feature of the model - the size, the proportions and the position and size of the stones - corresponds to the original design. (Fig. 2)
At this stage, close cooperation between designer and model maker is essential: without this, there is a very real risk of technical problems when the piece goes into production. When the basic shape of the piece has been completed to the designer's satisfaction, the model maker uses a selection of bits to drill the stone seats into the prototype. (Fig. 3) In size and shape, these correspond exactly to the Swarovski crystal jewelry stones that will be used later.
Now the time has come to make the mould, from which subsequent pieces will be made. The master model, the first satisfactory three-dimensional version of the design, is embedded in a rubber mould. The rubber is heated until it is liquid and flows around the model, and is then allowed to cool, leaving a negative impression of the model in the rubber. Channels are cut into the rubber to allow molten white metal to be forced into the negative imprints when the pieces are centrifugally cast. (Fig. 4)
The vast majority of pieces in the Swarovski Jeweler's Collection are polished by hand. This gives them the gleaming surface that is ideal for the gold-plating to follow (Fig. 5).
The mirror-like finish is yet another indication of the extremely high quality of Swarovski jewelry.
By now, the design has taken on a recognizable shape and the time has come to solder on the clasps and fastenings (Fig. 6). The exact positioning of these is determined back at the model-making stage, so all the person carrying out the task has to do is line up the various components properly. After the piece has been gold-plated (a two-stage process in the case of many designs) the area to be pave-set is first galvanized with rhodium to further underscore the brilliance of the crystal stones, and then the stone-setter gets to work hand-positioning full cut Swarovski crystal stones in a mesmerizing range of colors, shapes and sizes (Fig. 7). Some pieces in the Swarovski Jeweler's Collection have as many as 1500 tiny chaton stones.
In the penultimate stage of the production process, an epoxy-based enamel is pipetted into a speciay prepared recessed area (Fig. 8). Some unusually complex designs have up to seven different colors of enamel. After drying completely-it takes about 24 hours for enamel to harden thoroughly - the piece goes through a stringent check for completeness, functionality and quality. Then, and only then, is it ready to leave the house of Swarovski, and bring pleasure to a lucky new owner in one of the company's markets all over the globe.
This fine Swarovski Jewelry is available at most Authorized Swarovski stores and select department stores. If you do not the item you are looking for on this site, please contact us and we will special order it for you if it is a current Swarovski Jewelry item.
This information and photos are from the Swarovski Collectors Magazine.
In the list below, you will find some definitions to the various terms used by Swarovski in their jewelry line. I hope you find these helpful.
GLOSSARY of Jewelry Terms

ASYMMETRICAL -A jewelry piece that is not of equal or balanced proportion, not symmetrical.

BAGUETTE CUT - Small rectangular-shaped stone.

BANDEAU - An ornamental headpiece worn low across the forehead or as a hair-band. Today's bandeau is used exclusively as a hair-band.

BANGLE -A non-flexible or barely flexible bracelet made of solid or hollow metal or wire. Either one-piece to slip over the hand and worn loosely, or hinged so it can be opened and fastened around the wrist.

BARLEY-CORN CHAIN -An interesting chain with two links put together closely that is reminis- cent of the head of a barley corn or wheat.

BASE METAL -Alloy or non-precious metal, such as brass.

BEZEL SET - Stone setting method that holds the stone in place by surrounding it with a strip of metal which is burnished over the edge.

BIB -A necklace silhouette that gives the impression of a bib, by draping fringe effects of stones or beads.

BRICK LINK CHAIN -A chain with links that have the appearance of a brick like pattern.

BUTTERFLY CLUTCH -jewelry finding shaped with a hole in the center and two oval wings on either side; used to secure a pierced post.

CABLE CHAIN -A simple chain with interlocking segments.

CABOCHON CUT - Round surface, flat-backed and unfaceted stone.

CASTING - Method of shaping metal by melting and then pouring into hollow mold. The casted piece is slightly more porous, with a rough surface that requires additional polishing and finishing.

CHANNEL SETTING - Stone setting method that fits stones of uniform size into a channel to form a continuous strip.

CHATON BANDING - A flexible material con- sisting of Swarovski chatons (round stones) set in a metal cup with net of fiber for support.

CHATON CUT - Round crystal jewelry stone shape with 12 facets on the pointed back.

CHOKER - Short necklace, generally less than 14" long.

COMET ARGENT LIGHT (CAL) - Bright silver foil treatment that makes facets appear to be polished silver in color.

CRYSTAL -There are two basic kinds of crystal - rock crystal and man-made. Rock crystal is the common name for the mineral quartz, a semi- precious stone that occurs in nature. Man-made crystal is produced from a mixture of quartzsand, soda, potash, and lead oxide. Swarovski is a man-made crystal. Oddly enough, rock crystal has nowhere near the color brilliance of manufactured crystal.

CUFF -Wide bracelet with top side open to slip onto wrist.

DIAMOND CUT CABLE CHAIN - Process by which the chain is cut or faceted with diamond tipped tool resulting in a series of very bright shim- mering looks.

DOORKNOCKER EARRING -A two part flexible earring with a hinged center resembling a doorknocker.

EARRING DUET -Two pairs of earrings worn and sold together on the same card.

EARRING SILHOUETTE: GYPSY - Usually a drop earring with beads or elements hanging from it Often open in the middle. It has an ethnic inspiration.

CHANDELIER - Usually large earrings in clear crystal or color that have hanging elements reminis- cent of parts of a chandelier.

ELECTROPLATING - Coating metal articles with other metals by immersing them in a chemical solution and bonding with electrical current.

EMERALD CUT - Square or rectangular stone, one of the principal types of faceted cuts.

ENDLESS HOOP -A hoop earring that appears to be endless.

EPOXY -A shiny and translucent resin-based painl sometimes referred to as enamel, is applied by hand on the front and/or back of our jewelry pieces as a decorative coating.

EQUESTRIAN HINGE -A flexible hinge using pinched prongs which adds greater flexibility, uses traditional fold-over closure and is sometimes used as a two or three part depending on the design.

EQUESTRIAN LINKED BRACELET - Our name to describe a bracelet with solid elements connected by flexible connectors. Reminiscent of some connections in equestrian hardware.

ETRUSCAN HOOK CLOSURE -A closure used in jewelry resembling a fish hook that comes from the pre-Poman era.

EXTENDER - Element to be linked to necklaces or bracelets to extend their lengths.

EYE PIN -A wire form used for stringing beads, pearls, and stones - the eye allows for a dangly or moveable element.
FACET - Small, flat surface cut onto a stone, glass or crystal. Purpose is to refract the light and enhance the beauty of jewelry stones.

FACETING -The grinding and polishing of stones into a series of planes to bring out their brilliance and interior beauty.

FINDING - Item that is part of a piece of jewelry, such as catches, joints, settings, earclips and wires (technical/functional part of jewelry).

FINE LINE ENAMEL - jet enamel drawn out on an elegant thin line to accent and contrast with Swarovski pave.

FINIALS -The ends of a necklace treatment.

FLOATING NECK OR CHARM -A charm on a chain that is movable and therefore not soldered to the chain, it moves freely.

FLOWER STONE -A beautiful flower shape crystal stone that was produced at Swarovski for our exclusive use.This suite of jewelry for March 99 is the first introduction of this stone.FOIL - Metal coating on the back of crystal to reflect the light. Enhances the glittering effect of the crystal.

FOUR PRONG SET -A setting with four prongs that hold the stone in place.

FOX TAIL -A very strong squared chain that is finely woven in which the links appear like Vs nested together.

FRENCH EARWIRE (LEVERBACK) -Type of pierced earring where the wire slips through the hole in the ear and continues downward to become a decorative element; no clutch or fastener used.

FROSTED CRYSTAL - Crystal that has been etched to create a translucent, luminous matte surface.

FULL LEAD CRYSTAL - Full lead crystal is the finest man-made crystal because its high lead oxide content serves to enhance its natural color spectrum. The production of full lead crystal begins by combining proportionate amounts of quartzsand, soda, potash and lead oxide, which are then subjected to extremely high heat until molten. Crystal is not considered full lead until the lead oxide content goes above 30%. Swarovski full lead crystal has a lead content of 30% plus.

GOLD FACETED BAR CHAIN -A jewelry chain that has elongated bars which are faceted similar to our faceted beads.

GOLD PLATED -A thin layer of at least I 0-carat gold permanently bonded to the base metal. The United States jewelry product standard for gold- filled is a minimum of 12 carat, as accepted by the Manufacturing jewelers & Silversmiths Association

HEADPIN -A wire form used for sorting beads as part of a design element in jewelry.

HUGGIE -A clip earring that hugs the earlobe with a spring hinge and can create a reversible look.

ILLUSION NECK -The name of this contemporary silhouette comes from the illusion that the elements spaced carefully along the chain, silk or fine wire seem to float around the neck.

LARIAT - Necklace with open decorated ends that are looped or knotted instead of clasped. Can also have a center ornament to hold the necklace together.

LEATHER BRAIDED CORD - Genuine hand- crafted leather that is braided tightly to form a cord.

LIGHT SATIN PURPLE BAROQUE PEARL - Glass based natural look of pearl characterized by unevenness with a low gloss finish

LINK BRACELET -A bracelet made up of many connecting structures (links)

LOBSTER CLAW CLASP -A sturdy, heavier clasp in the shape of a lobster claw with a lever to open and close.

LOGO JEWELRY - An item that features or celebrates the Swarovski brand.

LOGO TAG - When there is not an appropriate place on the item for our logo or when we wish to emphasize the Swarovski logo, this logo tag is used at the end of the necklace or bracelet chain.

MAGNET CLASP -An elegant clasp built with two high tech magnets. Easily opens and closes.

MARQUIS CUT - Faceted, elongated oval stone, pointed at both ends.

MESH CHAIN - Delicately woven chain resembling fine mesh in rounded or flatish forms.

MILLENNIUM STONE -A suitable crystal design for celebrating the millennium. The design of the faceting reflects a new departure in the long history of gem cutting. The top of a crystal stone usually has a large flat facet called the table. In the millennium crystal the entire top of the stone (called the crown) is neatly faceted with graduating diamond shaped facets, swelling in the center to create a deep and beautiful example of the crystal cutters art.This stone was a collaboration between our designers and the artisans of Swarovski and is exclusive to Swarovski.

MILLGRAIN -A stone setting treatment that creates a row of tiny beads along the edge or ridge of a jewelry piece.

MULTI CHAIN - Made up of multiple or many chains.

NAVETTE CUT -Alternate name given to the marquis cut.

NECKLACE SHORTENER -A hinged ring with a clasp, used to double up strands.

OPEN-BACK SETTING - Setting in which the back of the stone can be seen, usually the crystal is unfoiled.

OPULENCE -This term is used for one of our collections and suggests rich abundance, luxury, extravagance and lavishness.

OVAL CUT - Faceted, elongated stone, round at both ends.

PAVE - From the French term for "pavement", means a large field of small stones set very close together to create a "wall-to-wall" paved effect. The more stones in the field, the more faceted surfaces there are, creating a more reflective piece.

PEAR SHAPED CUT - Stone cut into the shape of a pear or teardrop, rounded at one end.
PEARL ENHANCER - Stone or pearl drop setting which fits over strands of pearls, creating a pendant charm.

PEARL PLATE -A measurement derived from the method of sorting pearls through a graduated sieve. Later used as a standard for stone sizing.

PIERCED - Small openings in metal that gives jewelry the delicate effect of lace work.

PIN CLASP -A pin, which can be used as a clasp for bead strandage by trapping the beads behind the clasp.

PRINCESS CUT STONE -A highly faceted square cut crystal similar to a brilliant cut but adapted to a square shape to increase its brilliance.

PRINCESS TIARA -A formal headdress worn by Royal Princesses made up of over 350 fully faceted Swarovski crystals and a delicate band of the finest quality white pearls plated in a rhodium finish.
PRONG SETTING - Using the smallest amount of metal, this four or six prong setting flares from the base to hold the stone in a manner that reveals most of the stone.

"Q" CLASP -A finer more delicate secure clasp usually used in necklaces.

QUATRA-FOIL -A design element with four divisions as in a four-leaf flower.

QUILTED - Unfaceted, modulated pressed stones that resemble a quilted surface.
RHINESTONE - Small crystal jewelry stone; originally associated with chaton.

RHODIUM -A hard, white acid-resistant metallic element derived from platinum. Imparts a silver tone when electroplated onto casted metal.

RICE CHAIN -Woven Rice Chain - Beautiful new chain with interwoven elements, rounded like small rice grains.

RIVOLI CUT - Invented by Swarovski, 32 facets, 16 on the top and 16 underneath.
RUTHENIUM -A precious metal in the rhodium family that is often used for its dark grey coloration.

RUTHENIUM LACE - Pierced out dark metal work with many intricate openings similar to lace.

"S" HOOK -A closure used in jewelry that resembles the letter "S".

SNAKE CHAIN -A very supple cylindrical chain made up of fine segments, smooth to the touch.

SOFT GOLD PLATE -A gold finish with a slight sheen but with no texture, a special finish.

SPECIAL MARKETS - Product outside the normal Swarovski jewelry channels of tradition. (i.e. Disney)

SPRING WIRE - Coiled wire having a memory of its shaoe, which wraps comfortably around your wrist or neck.

STAINLESS STEEL CABLE -A durable light- weight string of extremely fine stainless steel wires twisted together to form a thin wire rope. It has a contemporary look and a fashionable metallic grey color.

STAMPING - Cutting out or marking a texture on metal with a die or hammer.

SS (STONE SIZE) - Stones slightly larger than pearl plate sizing, typically in millimeters.

STOP-OFF -This plating is unique in the industry. This is an extra plating process that plates the pav6 field with rhodium (while the rest of the piece may be plated in gold), giving an even whiter reflective pave.

TANZANITE -A beautiful violet colored crystal stone that derives its name from the gemstone discovered in Tanzania, Africa.This popular gemstone color works very well with a wide range of purples and blues.

TRADITIONAL CUFF -A bracelet with a hinge on one side and a catch on the other.

TWO-TONE OR BI-COLOR - Metal finished in two colors such as gold and rhodium or in two shades of one metal finish.

VERMEIL -A 22K gold plate over sterling silver.

V-NECK -The description of a necklace silhouette in aY shape. "Y" NECK -A simple silhouette that forms the shape of the letter "Y" with a thin drop neck.